まず最初にご紹介するのは、宮殿のような内装で有名なコムソモーリスカヤ(Комсомольская)駅。
※このページの写真は、クリックすると大きなサイズで表示されます。
ちなみに、つい最近、100周年を迎えたと報じられた共産党青年団カムサモール(Комсомол)と関係があるかどうかは謎(笑)
モスクワメトロさん(http://www.metro.ru/stations/koltsevaya/komsomolskaya/)によると、この駅が出来たのは1952年1月だそうです。
1952年といいますと、日本では、サンフランシスコ平和条約と旧日米安保調印の翌年で、まだアメリカの占領下。極東では朝鮮戦争真っただ中。李承晩が一方的に李承晩ラインを宣言したのはまさにこの月ですね。
そしてソ連では、スターリンが死ぬ前の年に当たり、この三年ほど前には、「原爆持っちゃったよ」宣言やら、メディアによる大々的なコスモポリタニズム批判の開始がありました。(これより前から、スターリンはそれっぽい発言してますけどね)
メトロさんのページには、モザイク画の中の人物として、アレクサンドル・ネフスキー、ドミートリー・ドンスコイ、クジマ・ミーニ、ドミートリー・ポジャールスキー、ミハイル・クトゥーゾフ、アレクサンドル・スヴォーロフといった名前が見えますが、これらは全てソ連ではなくウラジーミル大公国・モスクワ大公国・ロシア帝国などのルーシ／ロシア系国家の英雄です。時代背景を考えると、なかなか味わい深いもの(笑)がありますね。
ちなみに、この時代のコスモポリタニズム批判は、ロシア民族至上主義だのユダヤ人排斥だの、どう見ても胡散臭げなシロモノなのですが、ディオゲネス的な歴史ある(？)コスモポリタニズムについては、「ぶっちゃけそれって非現実的だよね」というのが、今世紀に入って見えてきた気がします。…という話は置いといて。
とりあえず、こういうもの(レーニン像)は撤去されずに残っています(笑)。
シャンデリアの根元にも、
ホームの壁の飾りはこんな感じ。
そして、エスカレーターを上がって出口付近の天井はこんな感じです。
こちらが外から見た駅舎。
入り口と出口が離れすぎてる件は前回お話ししましたが、上の写真は出口です。
この張り紙さんの言う通り、入り口は地下道を渡って、道路の向こう側にあります。
まず、上の写真の出口を出るとすぐ側にあるのが、レニングラード駅(Ленинградский вокзал)。サンクトペテルブルク(＝レニングラード＝ペテログラード)からの長距離列車はここに着きます。
向かいにあるのがカザン駅(Казанский вокзал)。なんとなくイスラムの香りがしますね。
これが地下道の入り口です。
中はこんな感じ。
地下道を出ると、カザン駅がすぐ近くに見えます。
ついでに、ヒルトン・モスクワ・レニングラード(Хилтон Москва Ленинградская)。いわゆるスターリン・ゴシック様式のホテルですね。外務省や文化人アパートなどについてはまた後日。
こちらが地下鉄の入り口。Mマークはマクドナルドじゃなくて、METROのMです。
なお、ここには写っていませんが、右隣にはメガフォン(МегаФон)とかいう大手通信の店舗があります。現地でSIMを調達する方は、ここかMTS(МТС)を使う方が多いかと思います。
エスカレーターを降りる前はこんな感じ。また無駄に柱に飾りが…(笑)
そして、長いエスカレーター…。
降りきると、こんな飾りが。ここにもクレムリンの星っぽいもの。
通路。
そしてホーム(一枚目の写真の線路寄り)です
いやー、維持費どうなってんだろ？っていうのが正直な感想でした。
まあ、ここまで来ると観光資源になるので、金かける価値はあるのかもしれませんけど。
ちなみに、駅構内ではガイド付きのツアー客も結構見かけましたが、日本人団体客には一度も遭遇しませんでした。どうも日本のツアーが回る場所は全体的に、ロシア革命以前の遺産に偏り過ぎてる気がしますね。うーん…、レフ(ЛЕФ)関係の皆様の作品とか、ソッツ・アートなんて言っても、一部にしか需要ないのかもしれませんが…。
ちなみに、現代の露店とか見てると、ソッツ・アートがパロディ的な笑いじゃなくて、マジカッコイとか思われてそうでちょっと怖いっす(笑) スターリン人気も、最近上がってきてるって聞きますしね…。
いや、まあこっちは完全に笑い取りに来てますけどね↓(でも、選挙で選ばれたトランプを同列に並べるのはどうかと思うの(笑))
次回は、革命広場(Площадь Революции)駅について。
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