投稿日: 投稿者: 赤坂

ロシア旅行記：サンクトペテルブルク ロシア革命史跡編1～ロシア革命＆美術＆音楽の軽度オタがロシアを旅した話 その２

今回は、ロシア革命がらみのネタを集めてみました。
※写真は全て、クリックすると大きなサイズで表示されます。

フィンランド駅

地下鉄１号線のプローシャチ・レーニナ駅の裏手にある長距離列車の発着駅。
「レーニンが乗ってきた汽車がある」と風の噂に聞いていたので、「よし、見てみようと」と思ったのですが、改札のオバちゃんに訊いても場所が分からない(笑)
しかし、このオバちゃんが親切な方で、どっかに電話して場所を確認してくれて、タダで中に入れてくれて、見える場所まで連れて行ってくれました。感謝。
で、見たのがコレ。

レーニン機関車(2) / lenin train

レーニン機関車(1) / lenin train

四月テーゼ直前のアレかと思ってたんですが、碑文読むと、一度サンクトペテルブルク(ペトログラード)を脱出して戻ってきたときの機関車っぽい。

ちなみに、現在のフィンランド駅はこちら。なんかすごい田舎の駅臭がしてるんですが…(笑)

フィンランド駅 / Finljandski Railway Station

ミハイル王子工兵学校

リチェーリヌイ橋のたもとにある学校。正面玄関の左右に大砲がぼんぼん並んでる(笑)

ミハイル王子工兵学校(1)

そして玄関上に飾られているのは、いまだにレーニンと槌鎌。ロシア人って面白い…。

ミハイル王子工兵学校(2)

その前にあるのは、サッカーワールドカップの名残。っていうか、こんな人通りの少ないところに作ってどうすんの？(笑)

サッカーボールオブジェ

巡洋艦オーロラ

夏の宮殿の斜め対岸辺りに係留されている古い巡洋艦。現地の発音的には「アヴローラ」
メトロ（１号線）のプローシャチ・レーニナ駅からだらだら歩いて行ったのですが、そこそ距離がありました。トラムかバスを使えば良かったかも…。

巡洋艦オーロラ(外観) / Russian cruiser Aurora

十月革命の象徴のように語られてきたオーロラ号さんですが、近年「そんな活躍してなくね？」と言われるようになってしまいました(笑)。
でもとりあえず、空砲ぶっ放したのは本当で、その後、士官候補生とボリシェビキ側の軍と撃ち合いが始まり、その後、コサック兵が「俺ら降りたわ」と言って兵営に戻ってしまったというのはホントっぽい。
とはいえ、エイゼンシュテインの『十月』で描かれていたようなスゴイ戦闘はなかったようですね。（いろんな本読むと、結構ダメダメな感じのクーデター(笑)）

この艦、氷川丸的ノリで中が見られるようになっているのですが、大きな荷物はロッカーに預けないと、イカちいおっさん二人組に阻止されるので注意。（クレムリンでは30mm×40mm×20mm超のバッグは入場を阻止されるようですが、だいたいそのぐらいのバックを持ち込んでる人は見かけました）
なお、オーロラ号の側には有料トイレがありました。博物館、美術館など、トイレのある場所に行く予定のない方はご利用ください。

巡洋艦オーロラ(甲板) / Russian cruiser Aurora

クシェシーンスカヤ邸（政治史博物館）

オーロラ号から、西に向かって歩いて10分弱のところにある博物館。
マリインスキー・バレエ団の花形バレリーナだったマチルダ・クシェシーンスカヤが住んでいた邸宅…なのですが、むしろ、レーニンがバルコニーから、まんま四月テーゼな演説をぶったことで有名。（二月革命の後、ここはボリシェビキの本部になってました）

クシェシーンスカヤ邸(1)/ Kshesinskaja house

クシェシーンスカヤ邸(2)/ Kshesinskaja house

中身はソ連時代のプロパガンダポスター多数。勿論ロトチェンコさんの作品も(笑)

政治史博物館(ロトチェンコ) / Kshesinskaja house Alexander Rodchenko

展示室内も、ロシアアバンギャルド愛が感じられて(笑)、なかなかカッコ良かったです。

政治史博物館(室内) / Kshesinskaja house

ただまあ、スターリン時代のものが多いんで、トロツキーの扱いが酷いよねという(笑)

政治史博物館(トロツキー) / Kshesinskaja house Trotsky

エルミタージュ美術館

地下鉄５号線のアドミラルチェーイスカヤ駅から歩いて行きましたが、これも、バスを使った方が便利だったかも…。
ちなみに、インターネット受付（https://www.hermitageshop.org/tickets/）で事前にチケットを買った方は、上記ページの地図に書かれた矢印の先のドアが専用の入り口になります。

エルミタージュ(インターネット予約入り口) / Hermitage internet entrance

エルミタージュといえば、言わずと知れたヨーロッパ絵画の一大聖地。なのですが、二月革命後（七月ぐらいからだっけ？）に臨時政府がここに入り、十月革命の舞台になった史跡でもあります。

映画『十月』でも使われていた大使の階段、孔雀のからくり時計、そして、からくり時計の前のローマのモザイク。

エルミタージュ(大使の階段) / Hermitage

エルミタージュ(大使の階段)2 / Hermitage

エルミタージュ(孔雀のからくり時計) / Hermitage

エルミタージュ(ローマのモザイク) / Hermitage

そして、アントーノフ・オフセーエンコさんが「私はあなたがた臨時政府閣僚全員の逮捕を宣言します！」した孔雀石の間です。
まあ、捕まえたのはだらだら残ってた十三人だけなんですけどね。っていうか、ケレンスキーなんかは、さっさと逃げちゃってたんですけどね(笑)

エルミタージュ(孔雀石の間)/ Hermitage

エルミタージュと言えば、「レンブラント！」「ルーベンス！」「ダ・ヴィンチ！」「ラファエロ！」ってな感じで、お客さんはざーっとそっち方面に流れていっちゃうのですが、上記孔雀石の間を含む西側の『お部屋ご堪能コース』もかなり見応えがあります。お暇があればぜひ。

エルミタージュ(ニコライ２世の書斎) / Hermitage

エルミタージュ(黄金の客間) / Hermitage

ペトロパヴロフスク要塞

地下鉄のゴーリコフスカヤ駅から徒歩で行ける要塞。この日はまともに歩けないぐらいの強風でした。中にはいろいろな建物があり、入場チケット売り場は聖堂の前の黄色い建物になります。
ちなみに、敷地内にやたらといたウサギは、多分『うさぎ島』から来ていると思われます。

ペトロパヴロフスク要塞(うさぎ) / Peter and Paul Fortress

なお、耳の弱い人は正午ごろ、外をうろつくのは危険です。
もんのすごいヘリの音がしたかと思うと、ズドンと大きな爆音が響き、本気で戦争が始まったのかと思いました。（実は正午の大砲の音）

ペトロパヴロフスク聖堂

ペトロパヴロフスク聖堂(外観) / Peter and Paul Fortress

ペトロパヴロフスク聖堂(内部1) / Peter and Paul Fortress

ペトロパヴロフスク聖堂(内部2) / Peter and Paul Fortress

ペトロパヴロフスク聖堂(内部3) / Peter and Paul Fortress

中の聖堂は、歴代皇帝一族の墓所にもなっていて、この中にはニコライ二世一家のものもあります。
骨になった状態で捨てられていたものが後から発見されたという経緯からか、一か所にまとまってこんな形で埋葬されていました。

ペトロパヴロフスク聖堂(ニコライ二世一家墓所) / Peter and Paul Fortress

それにしても、DNA鑑定までして特定したってすごいですよね。

監獄

こちらはトロツキー。1905年のプレ革命でしくじって逮捕され、ここに収監されました。この後、流刑になるところを脱走。

ペトロパヴロフスク要塞監獄(トロツキー) / Peter and Paul Fortress / prison / Trotsky

自分はこの自己陶酔おじさんが結構好きだったりするので、スターリンとソ連共産党はモノスゴク嫌いです。それはまあおいといて・・・。

ドイッチャーの本に、ソヴィエトの委員は結構優雅に暮らしてた（鍵はかけられず、互いに会ったり、本を読み漁ったり、文筆活動なんかもできた）的なことが書かれていたので、割とフツーの建物かなと想像していたのですが、結構本気な感じの監獄でした…。

ペトロパヴロフスク要塞監獄(トロツキー室内) / Peter and Paul Fortress / prison / Trotsky

ペトロパヴロフスク要塞監獄(トロツキー洗面台) / Peter and Paul Fortress / prison / Trotsky

そして、こちらはレーニンのお兄さん（アレクサンドル・ウリヤーノフ）。皇帝（アレクサンドル三世）暗殺未遂で捕まって処刑された方です。

ペトロパヴロフスク要塞監獄(レーニン兄) / Peter and Paul Fortress / prison

シュリッセルブルク（現ペトロクレーポスチ）での処刑の模様は、『黒い夜 白い雪』（ハリソン・E・ソールズベリー著）の冒頭で、もう映画のワンシーンかってぐらい印象的に描かれていましたが、実際、この人が居なかったら、レーニンが革命家になることもなかったかもしれませんね。
ちなみに、「名字が違うじゃん！」という突っ込みはナシです。レーニンの本名はウリヤーノフさんです。

司令官の館

中は博物館になっていて、ドラマ『エカテリーナ』で見たような緑の軍服から、20世紀初頭までの様々な風俗が展示されていました。こんなものも(笑)
ちなみに、この館の中にはトイレがありました。外に有料トイレがありますが、ここに入る予定のある方は焦って用を足さなくても良いかと。

ペトロパヴロフスク要塞(司令官の館) / Peter and Paul Fortress

スモーリヌイ

地下鉄１号線チェルヌイシェフスカヤ駅からだらだら歩いていこうかと思ったら、途中の道があまりにもつまんなかったので、適当にそっち方面にいくバスに乗ったところ、途中で曲がられて結構手間取ってしまいました。（MAPS.ME先生は付いていたのですが、バスの路線チェックともなると、google先生が居ない環境は結構辛かった…）

聖堂は、遠目には奇麗だけれど、近くに寄ってみるとなんかディズニーランドのハリボテ的な印象(笑)

スモーリヌイ(1) / Smolny Cathedral

中も殺風景なので、夜、ライトアップされた姿を見るだけにしとくのが良いんゃないかと…。

スモーリヌイ(2) / Smolny Cathedral

ちなみに、聖堂の裏手には、こんな建物（サンクトペテルブルク国立大学の持ち物らしい）がありまして、そこにはこんなプレートが。

スモーリヌイ(4) / Smolny Cathedral

スモーリヌイ(3) / Smolny Cathedral

全ロシア議会農地委員会、農民セクション、全ロシア労兵ソビエト大会、農民代議員の共同会議？　1918年1月28日とあるので、憲法制定議会が潰された直後の第三回大会辺り？

スモーリヌイと言えば、「７月事件の後、タヴリーダ宮殿追い出されたペトログラード・ソヴィエトが移ってきたのって、そこじゃなかったけ？」と思った方もいらっしゃるかと思いますが、あれは、ここじゃなくて現市庁舎らしいです。（石造りの丸アーチないしな…）

というわけで、次回は、聖堂系・美術系を中心に。

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